Experience the Great Wall of China without tours and crowds

I promise that this wonder is even more special in person. That said, the experience largely depends on which section of the Great Wall of China you choose.

Esta «excursión» fue parte de un viaje de una semana al norte de China, pero me encanta y desafía mucho este país. Estuve antes en Hong Kong y prontito estaré un mes por la zona central. Podes leer todos los artículos de China por acá.

Here I’ll tell you about the most popular options, what makes each one special, and my own experience exploring it on foot, on your own, and free from crowds. Shall we start?

Where is the Great Wall of China and where can you visit it from?

The Great Wall stretches over 21,000 km, but not all sections can be visited. Some parts are hard to access, others are within military zones, and many are in very remote areas.

That’s why the Wall is divided into sections, each with its own management, type of entry, and recommended routes. Choosing the right section is key to shaping your experience.

The most common way to visit is from Beijing, combining it with other attractions in China’s capital. From there, several sections are accessible, and depending on which one you choose, the experience can be completely different.

Below I’ll tell you the main options and which ones, based on my experience, I would avoid.

Sections of the Great Wall of China near Beijing

Badaling – the most crowded

It’s the section closest to Beijing, which is why all tours and those with very little time in the city visit it. All the towers are restored and very accessible. Entrance costs 45 CNY (~5.5 EUR).
I would really avoid visiting this area entirely.

Huanghuacheng – super photogenic

Huanghuacheng is another hidden gem that not many people know about. It’s located on the map between Badaling and Mutianyu; what makes it special is that it’s surrounded by water and the views are spectacular. It’s close to Beijing but requires more planning than Badaling. Entrance costs 5.5 EUR.

Mutianyu – the fun one

It’s an upgraded version of Badaling, surrounded by greenery but also comfortable and easily accessible. The most iconic feature is the slide to descend from the Wall. Entrance costs 40 CNY (~4.85 EUR), but the slide is an additional 100 CNY (~12.12 EUR). Although there’s a lot of promotion about “avoid the crowds, visit Mutianyu,” it has also become quite busy.

Jinshanling – the adventurous

This is one of the areas I visited and loved. It has both restored and original sections, where you can truly see how the Wall is preserved today. The views are incredible, and there are plenty of areas to explore and walk. Entrance costs 65 CNY (~7.88 EUR) and there’s also a shuttle supplement of 10 CNY.

Simatai – at night

It’s the only part of the Wall that can be visited illuminated at night. It’s close to Gubei Water Town, a bit further from Beijing. I also had the chance to visit it, and I’ll share my experience shortly.
Entrance is a bit more expensive: 40 CNY in the morning and 80–100 CNY at night (~9.70–12.12 EUR).

My experience on the Great Wall of China (no tours, no crowds)

I chose two sections of the Wall close to each other but very different in experience.
I explored Simatai at night and, the next day, did a 12 km hike from Jinshanling.

Below I’ll explain each in detail and which alternative I’d suggest based on my experience.

Simatai + Gubei Water Town

Gubei is a village that recreates traditional northern Chinese architecture, located near a dam. It’s built 100% for tourism, but it’s so beautiful that, in my opinion, it’s worth visiting.

The Simatai section of the Great Wall is located right next to this village. You don’t have to pay for entry to Gubei to explore the Wall, but the most common approach is to combine both visits… and that’s exactly what I did.

How to get there?

From Beijing, departing from Dongzhimen, there are buses that cost 46 CNY (~6 EUR) and drop you directly at the entrance of Gubei. There are only two departures per day: 8 am and 1 pm.

It’s important to know that this is the only transport paid in cash or with the Beijing transport card. They don’t accept Alipay or WeChat, so it’s best to be prepared.

🧚🏽 Google Maps doesn’t work well in China; the best alternative is AMAP. You can find this village as "Beijing Water Town," and public transport directions work perfectly there.

Alternatively, you’ll find taxi drivers offering a pool taxi for 80 CNY, which will probably be a faster journey.

Where to sleep?

If you only want to visit Gubei village and the Wall at night (or just one of them), it’s not necessary to stay overnight in Gubei. There were several travelers booking a taxi to return to Beijing at night for around 25 EUR.

However, if you want to take advantage of the proximity to other sections of the Wall… staying overnight would be the fastest and most recommended option (especially since the place is beautiful).

In China, the go-to booking site is Trip.com, and here is no exception. I chose 37 Degree Water Town Holiday Villa for around 15 EUR per night. It was a bit tricky to find, but it covered all needs and had direct views of the Wall.

⚠️ El pueblito en el agua es cerrado y cobran entrada POR DÍA, es decir, que si te quedas dentro de las murallas, tenes que pagar 2 entradas pero es tan tan bonito que quizá vale la pena, este es un ejemplo de esos.

Entrance to Gubei + Simatai

There are plenty of options available, with combinations that also depend heavily on the schedule. I paid around 36 EUR (quite a lot for China) for the combination of the Wall at night, the round-trip cable car, and entry to the water village.

My experience seeing the Great Wall of China at night

I went to the Water Town by bus. It’s the last stop of the route, and the journey takes about 2 and a half hours. After checking in at the hotel, I bought the combined ticket (paid via WeChat, but in person) and entered the village around 4:30 pm.

I traveled at the end of November, off-peak season, and there were very few people. Even so, it’s clear that the place is prepared to accommodate large numbers of visitors.

Gubei has plenty to do: restaurants, cafés, temples, art workshops, and an observation tower. There are maps all over the village. At 6:30 pm, I had to get to the Simatai entrance.

The entrance includes shuttles that connect the village with the Wall, both ways, although I didn’t use them. Once past security, you access the cable car, which can be used individually or in a group. In about 8 minutes, you reach the mountain.

From there, there are two different access points to the Wall: one starts with stairs to the right, and the other continues straight ahead with a slight descent. I chose the latter.


During the night visit, you can only explore four towers. Following the straight path, you'll come across a section of the Wall that is off-limits, perfect for photos. From there, you'll start ascending some dizzying stretches, which, in my opinion, are better to climb up than to go down.

Conclusion and Recommendations for Simatai

In my opinion, it’s very unique and special to see the Wall and the village illuminated at night, especially at the beginning, when the horizon is still reddish and the stars start to appear.

Even so, if I could choose, I would go around 5 PM, when it’s open, to watch the sunset and then see night fall. Combined with another section of the Wall during the day, the experience seems spectacular to me, and I would definitely choose it again.

Jinshanling + Hike on the Great Wall of China

Jinshanling is one of the most complete sections to visit the Great Wall. It combines restored stretches—those iconic ones you've probably seen in photos—with original areas where you can truly appreciate the ancient construction. Additionally, due to its length and location, it's one of the best spots for long hikes along the Wall.

The hike goes from Jinshanling to Gubeikou, covering about 12 km and combining stretches along the Wall with sections at its base. It's not very well signposted, but below I’ll explain the route in full detail.

How to get there?

The only way to reach Jinshanling is by taxi; but wait, I’ll tell you where to start from.

  • If you’re coming from Gubei Water Town or the Simatai Wall (like I did), you can get a taxi at the village entrance and reach Jinshanling in 20 minutes for less than 5 EUR.
  • If you’re not planning to combine it with another section of the Wall, a good option is to arrive the night before in Gubeikou, which does have a train station. From there, a taxi to Jinshanling costs about the same. Another alternative is to do the hike in the opposite direction: start at Gubeikou and finish at Jinshanling.

From Beijing, you can take a train to Gubeikou. It’s the most economical option and also quite comfortable.

You can check the schedules on Trip.com, but if you have time, it’s better to buy the ticket directly at the station using the train number. This way, you avoid the app’s commission, which is usually high for such low-cost trips.

Where to sleep?

As I mentioned, I stayed at 37 Degree Water Town Holiday Villa in Gubei Village. However, if you only plan to visit this section of the Great Wall, it would be more convenient to stay in Gubeikou Village.

These accommodations are close to the train station and the entrance to the Great Wall (about a 30-minute walk).

Entrance to Jinshanling + Gubeikou

I arrived by taxi at the central entrance of Jinshanling and bought the ticket on site, again using WeChat. It costs 65 CNY (around 8 EUR) and there’s an additional 10 CNY (1.50 EUR) for the shuttle service to the main area. There’s also a cable car, but it only operates during high season.

The path to the Great Wall is very scenic and not too steep. You pass by small markets, a café, and restrooms, which makes the beginning of the hike quite comfortable.

Jinshanling can also be accessed from the east or west sides, as there are entrances in those areas. If you’re traveling in the low season, it’s a good idea to check that they’re open before going.

Regarding Gubeikou, normally you would need to pay an additional entrance fee for that section. However, since I traveled during the low season and there were very few people, there was no staff at the entrance and I didn’t end up paying anything.

The hike from Jinshanling to Gubeikou

The Jinshanling area is divided into east, central, and west. The east section used to connect with Simatai via a hike, but in recent years it has been closed and is no longer accessible.

The west section, on the other hand, is somewhat connected to Gubeikou and is the part that can be explored on foot today. Between the two sections, there is a military zone that prevents continuing along the top of the Wall. For this reason, an alternative route was designed— not very well signposted— that goes around the Wall and crosses the countryside to reach the next section.

The start of the Hike

It’s best to start at the main entrance. If you go up without the shuttle or cable car, the first view you’ll get of the Wall is General Tower (check the little map). From there, I climbed up to Shanlingkou, which offers incredible views, and once I got there, I began the hike heading west.

Six Window Tower is the last tower open for the hike. Between Teochunkou and Six Window, you’ll see a sign that says “scenic walk” – that’s the way to go. During the hike, the easiest thing is to follow the signs towards the car park at the west gate.

When you reach that gate, the scenic walk seems to lead nowhere. Here, you need to turn left, towards where you see construction, and you’ll find a small tunnel that takes you to the other side, going underneath the Wall.
It’s likely there will be people working in Teochunkou; if in doubt, you can ask right there and they’ll guide you.

The detour on the hike

You’ll be walking with the Wall always on your left and trees on your right. The markers you need to follow are pink dots. Whenever you feel like you’re straying from the path, look around; you’ll almost certainly spot one of those dots marking the route.

⚠️ If you do the hike in the opposite direction, many hotels in Gubeikou have photos of the detours. If not, you’ll need to keep an eye on the pink dots, which in that case will be behind you.

The hike isn’t difficult, but it’s quite steep. There are many uneven sections with loose dirt and small stones that, at least for me, were quite slippery on the descent. The first part ends upon reaching the car park at the west entrance of Jinshanling.

There’s a little shop there where you can top up on water and snacks. It’s the last one on the route, so it’s worth making the most of it.

Arrive to Gubeikou

Stop at the parking area, with the shop on your right – there’s only one path to the left that leads to Gubeikou. It’s important to remember this because there are no signs indicating it.

The path to reach the Wall mostly goes through forest. It’s very beautiful and quite easy to walk. Once you arrive at Gubeikou, the original Wall begins. Here you really need to pay attention to the route you choose: I ended up walking about 500 metres along the Wall only to reach closed towers, having to backtrack to find the correct detour. At this point, there are no pink markers, just signs for the section.

The original sections are much more vertiginous than the restored ones. The stones are loose and, along much of the route, there are no side walls. Even so, the feeling of walking through these sections is so incredible that it’s completely worth it.

The end of the Hike

During the final part of the hike, you'll come across some wooden stairs running along the Wall: this is the path you need to follow. Upon reaching the General Tower, it’s time to start descending towards the village of Gubeikou.

The train station is about a 40-minute walk from the main entrance of that section. You can also get a DiDi for around 1 EUR, and during peak season, there are usually taxis waiting right there. In November, when I went, there was no one around, and I couldn’t get any driver to accept the trip via apps either.

I ended up walking to a supermarket, asked for help, and one of the girls got me a driver. Keep in mind that the last train to Beijing leaves at 17:23, and there’s passport control and security, so it’s best to arrive a bit earlier.

And that’s the end of the hike. It was an incredible experience and, without a doubt, one of the best memories I’m taking home from China.

Later on, I’ll write about my full itinerary and other trips I already have planned around central China. But before closing this article, I want to share some random tips that would have been really useful for me before I went.

Other tips for planning your visit

What to do with your bags?

I left my belongings at my accommodation in Beijing after check-out with no extra charge. If that option isn’t available, there’s an alternative through WeChat to use lockers in stations, shopping centres, and some buildings. Keep in mind: you’ll need a Chinese phone number to use them.

Another option is to leave your belongings at your hotel in Gubeikou or Gubei Water Town, though that means taking another taxi to pick them up later. Either way, I’d definitely recommend doing the hike as light as possible.

What to eat? Is there anything over there?

Keep in mind that the walk can take between 4 and 6 hours, so it’s wise to bring snacks and enough water to last the whole route. During peak season, the restaurants and bars at the entrances to the Wall are usually open (though prices can be quite high), and there are also a few kiosks nearby where you can grab something.

I bought some bread and chocolate at the Lawson in Gubei Water Town, and in Gubeikou there’s a large supermarket where you can also stock up.

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Some of these links are affiliate links. This means that if you purchase through them, the company gives me a small commission at no extra cost to you. In this way, you help me keep travelling and creating content like this.

There’s no doubt that visiting the Great Wall of China this way was epic, and I’m sure you’ll love experiencing it like this too. If you have any questions, you can leave them in the comments or send me a little message on Instagram at @guadiviajando.

Thank you to made it to here, enjoy China!!!

Guadi.

Hey, this is Guadi

An Argentine at heart but adopted by the world, setting out to explore every corner and tell the stories that often go unheard.

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