If there’s a place in Egypt that looks like pure AI but actually exists, it's Siwa. It’s lightyears away from the chaos of Cairo or the non-stop hustle of Luxor. Siwa is different; it’s peace, it’s Berber culture, and honestly, probably the most authentic place I’ve stepped foot in in the entire country.
Fair warning: getting there isn’t for the lazy. But since we’re friends here, I’m going to tell you exactly how to do Siwa on your own, on a budget, and living the real deal, with salt on your skin and a whole lot of history. Ready?
Wait, I just saw it on the map... is Siwa actually worth it?
Beyond the history (we’re talking castles and ancient cemeteries), the salt flats, and the endless palms, what shocked me most about Siwa is that you aren’t just a "walking dollar" here. People live off their dates, salt, and agriculture; tourism is just a bonus. So, if you’re craving genuine cultural interactions, it’s already worth the trek.
It’s a much more conservative community (heads up with the dress code: shoulders and knees covered at all times), but it feels 100% real. Plus, they don’t just speak Arabic; they have their own language, Siwi, and a deep connection to their Amazigh (Berber) roots.
I know what you’re thinking: "Haha, great, but I can connect with people without a 10-hour bus ride," and yeah, true—but the history and landscapes also tip the scales. For me, it’s a massive yes.
How to get to Siwa from Cairo?
Siwa is a remote destination: it’s 560 km from Cairo and 300 km from Marsa Matruh (the closest coastal city). These are the two main jump-off points for launching your own adventure. I’d read in many places about endless military checkpoints; honestly, we only hit one, and they just asked for our passports.
To get there from Cairo, I chose the night bus, and honestly, it’s the option I recommend. The journey takes about 10 hours, and the company that runs the direct route is West & Mid Delta. It’s the most reliable and, as far as I know, the only one with full-sized buses for such a long haul.
Oh, wait! Before I explain everything in great detail... if you’re feeling a bit lazy about organizing it all on your own, you can always hop on a tour (it’s not really my travel style, but it’s totally valid!). Here is a highly-rated 3-day tour from Cairo if you want to skip the logistics.
Where to catch it and how to buy tickets?
Buses leave from Torgoman Station (Cairo Gateway), right near the city center. You'll find the departure point on the ground floor.
You can buy your tickets in advance right here, or slightly cheaper directly at the station. I highly recommend doing it a few days ahead of time. Learn from my mistake: on the way back, we totally spaced on buying them and found ourselves stranded with zero seats left on absolutely every bus to every city. I'll tell you how that drama ended in a bit and what you need to do so it doesn't happen to you.
How to get back from Siwa? (And what to do if you get stranded)
If your plan is to head back to Cairo, you need to do exactly the same thing but in reverse. You can buy tickets and catch those big, comfortable buses right here.
We wanted to continue our trip toward Alexandria (part of our month-long journey through Egypt) and we got a little too comfortable. When we finally went to buy our tickets—surprise! There wasn’t a single seat left on any bus for the next three days. I mean nowhere, eh. Not to Cairo, not to Alexandria, nothing.
If the same thing happens to you, your only alternative is the local microbus area. They leave from right here and don’t have fixed schedules. The system consists of a man sitting in a little shack jotting down names on a crumpled piece of paper. Once the van is full (and when I say full, I mean packed with people and bags of salt to the roof), it takes off. We were the only foreigners, and it was quite the adventure—I live for those moments! There were so many people that two vans filled up before we could finally snag seats on one to connect with the bus to Alexandria.
Where to stay in Siwa?
The center of Siwa is super tiny, and almost everything is very close to the main square and the Shali Fortress. If you're traveling close to summer, air conditioning is non-negotiable. Don't let them convince you that the mud walls are enough; the desert heat is unforgiving.
The backpacker option (where I stayed): Al Manara Hostel. Don’t expect luxury; it’s a very simple spot. However, it’s perfectly located in the center, it's comfortable, and the Wi-Fi worked like a charm.
If you have a bit more room in your budget, these two places (Tanirt and Soléi) look like they were plucked straight off Pinterest.
What to do / see in Siwa?
Let's organize it by proximity, shall we? Everything in the center can be done on foot, and for the things further out, you'll need to negotiate a ride in a tuk-tuk.
Shali Fortress; the melted city
This 13th-century fortress is made of kershef (salt and mud). The incredible part is that in 1926, there were three days of heavy rain and the city literally started to dissolve. It is so central that it will be impossible for you to miss it, but make sure to set aside some time for a proper visit.
Al-Mawta Mountain: Or the Mountain of the Dead
If Shali is where they lived, this is where they went when they passed away. It’s essentially a cemetery, but what’s incredible is that the tombs are carved right into the rock, and some are still decorated with paintings. This all dates back to the Greek and Roman periods. The entrance fee is 100 EGP (about 1.6 EUR). We walked there from the center; it's only a 15 min stroll.
For everything else, it's better to negotiate a half-day rate for a tuk-tuk, or you can even get around by renting a bike.
Temple of the Oracle
Where it is said that Alexander the Great himself came to ask if he was the son of Zeus. These are ruins where you can observe the mix of Roman, Greek, and Egyptian cultures.
Temple of Umm Ubayd
This one was created out of devotion to Amun; it is free and located very close to the previous one, but there really isn't much left standing to see.
Piscina de Cleopatra
Legend has it that if you bathe here, you’ll stay beautiful forever. To be honest, your skin will definitely need it, haha, because it’s where most tuk-tuk drivers take you for a dip after visiting the salt pools.
This deep, circular pool is in the middle of a small plaza, surrounded by charming shops and cafes with a great vibe.
Salt Lakes
Here it is: the absolute highlight of any visit to Siwa. What they don't tell you on Instagram is that it’s a real working salt mine; meaning, right next to those stunning turquoise pools, you’ll see excavation machinery.
The ideal way to visit is in a private tuk-tuk, as the driver can take you to one of the further pools (the ones without the crowds). You can have the luxury of choosing whether you want small, large, greenish, or turquoise pools to float in!
If you don't want to stay covered in salt for too long, bring a bottle of water to rinse off the worst of it until you get to Cleopatra’s Pool. There’s also a man in a truck with a water tank who charges for quick showers on the spot.
🧚🏽 Don't shave your legs the day before. If you have even a tiny scratch, it’s going to sting like you wouldn’t believe.
To watch the sunset, everyone recommends either Gabal Dakrur or Fatnas Island.
Another common experience when visiting Siwa is heading into the desert in a 4x4. I didn't do it myself, so I can't recommend any specific companies; however, I imagine the best approach is to ask your tuk-tuk driver or check at your hotel.
Where to eat in Siwa?
While I usually travel on a tighter budget and these sections are mostly about cafes, Egypt has such great prices and the aesthetic of the restaurants in Siwa is so beautiful that I have a couple of recommendations for you.
Tekeyet Elamir Restaurant & Café; one of the more expensive spots, but the service is so good and the place is so beautiful that it's worth every penny.
OLA restaurant; they have an incredibly extensive menu.
Abdu Restaurant; high turnover, right in the center, and excellent service.
Well, that’s a wrap on Siwa. I hope all this info has inspired you to visit this desert gem. If you’re planning a more extensive trip around the country, make sure to check out my other blog posts. And don't forget to follow me on social media—see you there!
I’ll tell you everything, from our experience traveling through the Sinai Peninsula to what life is like on board a Dahabiya sailing down the Nile.
Safe travels mate! see you on the road.
Guadi xx
